Beyond the end

My plan was to stop writing the blog when I reached Santiago, but today is wet and I am on my own so here is the bonus entry. I am still figuring out the end of this journey. It probably won´t come together fully for a long time yet. The arrival here was amazing but also rather sad as we greeted new friends and said good bye. Jenny, Jane, Holly and I got the bus to Finisterre. the drive was a bit crazy as the roads were very twisty. I was surprised at how big Finisterre was but somehow it didn´t speak to me. We did all the things we wanted to do. We walked to the lighthouse, sat on the roacks and meditated but when it came to burning our stuff, there was nowhere to do it. I ceremoniously left my hat in a garbage can - it was drenched in olive oil from our octopus experience. Had good food but didn´t stay up for the sunset. Nexyt morning Holly and I attempeted to get a bus to Muxia. The first one we went for only ran on Sundays! WE waited but to no avail. we went for the next bus which stopped to pick us up. the driver opened the storage for us to put our bags in but when we came to get on the bus he said, "no, no, no!" We had to quyickly grab our bags before he closed up and took off for Santiago. We have no idea why - just one of those unexplained mysteries. We ended up getting a Taxi which only cost us €16 but was well worth it. With the help of the taxi driver we found a small but nice hotel, left our packs and went exploring. Bought lunch at the Supermercado and took it to the rocks by the church. It was so nice - quiet and peaceful unlike Finisterre. sat for ages listening to the sound of the ocean, looking out to the distance and just thinking of all we have done. It´s been quite a journey. No one can do the Camino without some changes to their lives. How these will pan our when we get home, God only knows at this point. We went to Mass at the local church but it was very routine. The priest was done in 17 minutes (holly timed it) and it felt rather flat. We have had a full range of Mass experiences, some have been touching, others rather cold. Got the bus back to Santiago yesterday and have a hotel room for 2 nights. Yesterday I just wandered, did some shopping but went back to my room early because I was tired! Today I´ve been back to the Cathedral and just wandered round. I stayed for Mass and they swung the Censor again. This time I was right underneath it - what an awesome experience. It was flying and smoking like crazy. today there was some translation of the mass into English and it had a very special feeling. Sat with some Americans who had just come in they were tired. Brought back feelings of last Sunday. Tomorrow I head for Madrid on the train. sunday in Madrid and then home on Monday. Iam looking forward to seeing you all agian. It´s been an amazing Camino experience. Blessings Daphne

Santiago - finished, done!

So now we are finished. Got up at 4am this morning so that we could get to Santiago in time for the noon mass when they swing the big incense burner. Last night´s sleep was interupted for some by a major street party for the Feast of Corpus Christi. I slept through most of it - just love those ear plugs! but the music was still going when we left the Albergue at 5am. It was dark as we started walking so we needed flashlights to see the Camino signs, plus it was raining. Not a great start to the day. We were all hurting and tired so the pace was slow, but we managed to find our way through the woods in the dark. Walked for about 2 hours before coffee and then pushed on to Santiago. Arrived at the Cathedral about 10.30am. It was very exciting because we met all sorts of people who we have seen along the way: among them Lesley the Canadian girl who had so much trouble at the beginning, the 2 Korean girls, an Irish girl who is a surgeon/doctor but looks about 12, and a Belgium man who walked from Belgium about 2000+ km. It was like a great reunion. Got a seat in the church around 11am and waited for the Mass to start at 12. Great to sit down. At the end of the service they lit the censor and it swung right across the church - very exciting although we were a bit far back to fully appreciate it. It´s been quite an emotional day. We checked into the pilgrim office to receive our Compostela - certificate of proof that we did it all! Took a while to find accommodation but are settled into a small hotel near the cathedral. Spent some time exploring the town, shopping and of course eating. So that´s it folks until I get home. Time to relax and sleep. Can´t wait to see you all and be home to my own bed - but that´s not till next

Arco de Pino

A somewhat uneventful day, but following a very eventful night. Thank you God for earplugs and I missed all the excitement. Apparently we had a very drunk and abnoxious Ozzie in our dorm.Friends tried to get him to go to bed but to no avail, so we had the police in around 1:30am arresting him and coming in search of his belongings. First I heard of it was this morning when we got up at 5:30am! Good to know it was well taken care of by our Hospitalera and others. Today´s walk was fairly gentle, but not without uphills! We walked through shaded glades, with beautiful flowers. One garden looked very like my summer garden in Smithers with bleeding heart, fuscias, pink ground cover, African daisies in different colours. We lost Jenny for much of the day. Holly and I were in front and we both stepped off the trail to pee - Jenny must have gone by us and we didn´t notice. We got to our arranged meeting place and waited until Sharon and Jane arrived. They knew Jenny was in front of them. We waited a bit longer and then came into Arco de Pino. We had booked at this Albergue and when we showed up Jenny´s pack was here but no sign of her. She showed up after about an hour, so all is well. Things always work out on the Camino. Holly and I have just been for a snack and apparently there is a big music festival here at 6pm. Not sure how much of it we will take in. We´ll probably be in bed by 8pm. We want an early start tomorrow. So we only have one more day go - around 20km! VERY exciting! We plan to be up at 4am so we can be on the road by 5pm in order to get to Santiago for the noon mass. This is the time when they hoepefully will swing the huge incense burner - remember the "Way"? Apparently they don´t always do this ceremony but we really hope they will tomorrow. We are all ready to be finished and look forward to our pilgrim mass on Monday. This is when they recognize all those who have come in that day, not by name but by country. In many ways I don´t need the recognition because I know that I´ve done it but it will be good ending for us as a group and we will receive our Compostela. So till next time. Love Daphne

Ribadiso

Last night was interesting. We went for a pilgrim meal in the restaurant attached to the Albergue. We arrived early so we sat and waited for a while with drinks. Asthe waitress came to take our order she managed to pour a glass of water all over me. She was very embarrased and i was very wet. Went and changed and the rest of the meal was uneventful until the end when she brought us a tray of liqueurs - we guessed to make up for the dousing! We laughed and I was only glad that it was water not vinto tinto! Today is day 33 - only 2 to go. 42km more!!The days are closing in on us and we will soon be at our journey´s end. It feels bitter-sweet. I´m definitely ready to be done but it´s hard to imagine going back to life in the real world. Our group gets on well and we have shared plenty of good times and tought times over the last five weeks: We miss Charlotte since she is walking on the finisterre; but it will be sad to leave good friends behind: Today we´ve walked 26km. Left early this morning. The weather is cool but not raining perfect for the tired pilgrims. The highlight of the day was lunch. We stopped at Melide the best place to sample "pulpo" that is octopus. We were recommended to go to a particular restaurant for the best pulpo in Spain. The owner was holding a whole octopus up and its legs were dangling - he shook it to scare us and think that it was moving. We took the advice of the local and sampled it with, of course, Vino Tinto. How was it? well it was chewy but well flavoured: the thought of eating it was actually worse than the actualexpereince; but I´m not clamoring for more! we´ve had that experience! As we continued down the streets of Melide we saw am older man playig his harmonica. he was keen to show us pictures of him dressed up and performing on stage. We have seen a number of people riding horses and wonder if they are on their way to Santiago as well. They seem to come in groups. We passed a bakery with piles of the daily bread ready for pick up or delivery. We thought we were done with hils but not so - still plenty of them and more to come. We walked through several plantations of Eucalyptus trees which smelt beautiful. The trail was well shaded and we crossed streams on very solid rock bridges. So the end of another day on the Camino. Pilgrim meal to come

Palas de Rei

Had a relaxing afternoon and evening in Portomarin. There was a speicial concert in the church for pilgrims at 6pm. A man played the flute, then sang to his guitar. The accousitices were great and the music was so reflective of the Camino. Good supper and Mass before bed at 8:45pm. It´s hard to believe that I am in bed before 9pm most days and sleep until 5:45. Last night was good. We slept in a huge dorm - something like 120 people in one great big room separated by curtains but it was clean and spacious and the snoring wasn´t nearly as bad as the night before (at least so I am told, my ear plugs do a great job!) This morning we were ready to go by 6:30 but the Albergue ladies came in and made coffee and it was pouring rain. So of course we stayed and had our morning coffee before we even started walking! We put on our rain gear and were ready to head out when we realized it had stopped raining. In the space of 5 minutes the street changed from a roaring torrent of rain water to just wet. Galicia does a good job of dealing with horrendous downpours, they build the strets and trails to accomodate the rain. We were out of the door by 7am but somehow had great difficulty finding our way out of town. I guess we discovered that the map and the big signs are right! We did a complete circle of the town, up and down steps before we finally hit the trail. It took us almost an hour. We noticed today a great increase in the number of pilgrims on the trail. Many people do the stretch from Sarria to Santiago - the last 100m. and the minimum to get the pilgrim certificate at the end. We continue to meet interesting people. There were 10 Irish girls today who were completing a 5 day adventure challenge for their college. I told one to enjoy the journey - her response "enjoy is hardly a word I would use to describe it." Another said, "Some people even walk from St. Jean." That would be us!! If we think we´ve come a long way, what about those who have walked from their homes in France, Belgium or Italy. Some have been on the road since the beginning of April. One lady was walking in the other direction from Santiago to Glastonbury in England. Everyone´s Camino is different - no one´s is better or worse than others. Each is unique. Today we reconnected with 2 girls from Korea who we haven´t seen for weeks. It´s like seeing old friends again. We also met new people from Canada who started just before us in St. Jean! The scenery today was beautiful. Galacia is so lush. Mind you we´ve walked through a number of farming areas that definitely have that "country" small. We were told that the climb over O Cebreiro was the last climb we would have to do. Oh yes? Most of today was uphill - but I have to admit it wasn´t too bad. (no, Harry it is not all down hill from Triacastela!) The weather was cool so it made it conducive to walking a bit faster. The book tells me we only have 68km to go - hard to believe it will ever end!!I have to admit it is the most difficult thing I have ever done, but it is also very rewarding. God is alive and well on the Camino. There are so many moments that truly are a blessing - especially when we least expect them. so 3 more days until we reach Santiago. It is hard not to look forward now but I wouldn´t change any of it. It is amazing and will take me a long time to figure it all out. Right now I can´t even remember what we did or where we stayed. Fortunately I have pictures, the guide book and my journal to jog my memory! Thank you for all your prayers. I am so thankful to have the support of so many people in this pilgrimage. You have all played a part. Blessings till next time. Daphne

Portomarin

A shorter day today and we´ve broken 100km!! Last night´s albergue was a challenge a couple of people checked in and a few minutes later checked out! Actually it was not the one we thought we were at but it was where we ended up. The shower situation was a challenge as there was no place to take off clothes behind a curtain, so it was strip down and jump in the shower before the next man came in. Thanks to Jane for policing the situation! The laundry facilities were not clean- moss in the dirty sink with bugs crawling round. I managed to wash 2 itmes of clothing without anything touching the sink! Apparently the snoring during the night was like a symphony. I am particularly thankful for 2 things on this trip: first happy feet. Even after 700km they are serving me well, no blisters and only minor irritations which have quickly resolved themselves. The second is ear plugs and good sleep. I have to admit I was not sure how I would do sleeping a huge rooms with a cacophony of nightime snorers but with the assistance of ear plugs I have slept amazingly well. All is good! Today´s walk was beautiful. Now we are in Galicia the scenery is very lush. We haven´t had rain that has affected our walking. It rained last during the evening and the air is damp but the cooler temps make for easier days. We left at 6:30am and found coffee after about 8km. We were approaching Portomarin and I was feeling very hungry but determined not to complain (I appear to have a reputation as the one who needs\wants food) We had gone less than 50m when there was a table at the side of the trail with fruit, cookies and drinks to buy. Another amazing Camino moment. I love those God given times, those special moments when we are given, not necessarily what we want but we get what we need. Arrived in Portomarin shortly after noon. Did the usual shower, laundry etc. and went in search of lunch. Had Empinada with meat - kind of like a huge pizza pop cut in slices. It was good. Now we are ready for a siesta. Thinking of you all, especially Ellia, Declan, Brynn and Nigel. Aly and Zach - Hope the renos are still on track. We hope to be in Santiago on Sunday, take part in the pilgrim Mass on Monday and then take the bus to Finisterre. It´s hard to believe that our journey is coming to an end. It will be a different life when I no longer live out of a back pack and have to think of other things except walking, eating and sleeping. Blessings Daphne

Samos and Barbadolo

Internet continues to be a challenge but here I go again. Yesterday was a short day. Had coffee before we left Triacastela which was a real treat. We walked mainly along roads to the community of Samos which is a monastery around which the town is built. We decided to check into another albergue because we didn´t want to hang around until 3pm when the monstery Alberge opened. It was a very hot day. Had lunch in a cafe and waited until the monastery opened at 4.30pm. Joined a tour which was in English but mainly German people. The monastery was amazing. Beautiful murals all round the cloisters. The church was gorgeous. It was hard to take in all the info we were given but we had to be careful not to be critical of the German tourists! After supper we went to Vespers and Mass in the church. There were several monks - mostly rather old but they were sweet. They sang Vespers - not always in time or tune with the organ. It was followed by mass which was quite etherial (if that is the right word?) This morning we were up bright and early ready to be on the road, only to discover that we couldn´t get out of the Alberge because the door was locked and the key was stuck between the door and the door jam. After much trying we all passed the packs out of the window and climbed out after them. A real Camino moment! The next moment was as we were walking down a small country lane we realized that there were cows coming behind us! The farmer´s wife had a stick and was attempting to keep the cows in line. They got a gentle tap if they didn´t cooperate! We followed them for several minutes really neat. Further along the trail we came to a little church which was locked but there was a bell. I rang the bell and thought of Zita at Quick!! A magical Camino moment. We stopped for coffee in Sarria and went into a couple of churches. Do you get the idea that there are alot of churches along the way? As we came out we were greeted by 2 ladies from Galicia who were very keen to know how we liked the Camino. Thye chatted in Spanish and in French and we really didn´t understand each other but we laughed alot. They loved to tell us about the Camino and were impressed that we had walked all the way from St. Jean. Another Camino moment! We walked for another 5km to Barbadelo and checked into an Albergue here. Somehow we got confused as to which we were going to and ended up at the wrong one. However we do have a bed but it is the most basic we have come across. There was moss in the laundry sink and bugs floating. Oh the joys. As we approach the end of our journey it is more difficult to focus on the present and not be looking forward to the fact that we only have 5 more days of walking! Isn´t that amazing?! The scenery is amazing and we are in Galacia which is very lush ie quite wet. Someone said we have 5 days of rain coming! but we have been very lucky with the weather. So the end of another day on the Camino which lots of joys and treasures. Tomorrow we go on and hope to get to Santiago by Sunday. Hope all is well back home. I always love to read your comments. Till later. Daphnew