Beyond the end

My plan was to stop writing the blog when I reached Santiago, but today is wet and I am on my own so here is the bonus entry. I am still figuring out the end of this journey. It probably won´t come together fully for a long time yet. The arrival here was amazing but also rather sad as we greeted new friends and said good bye. Jenny, Jane, Holly and I got the bus to Finisterre. the drive was a bit crazy as the roads were very twisty. I was surprised at how big Finisterre was but somehow it didn´t speak to me. We did all the things we wanted to do. We walked to the lighthouse, sat on the roacks and meditated but when it came to burning our stuff, there was nowhere to do it. I ceremoniously left my hat in a garbage can - it was drenched in olive oil from our octopus experience. Had good food but didn´t stay up for the sunset. Nexyt morning Holly and I attempeted to get a bus to Muxia. The first one we went for only ran on Sundays! WE waited but to no avail. we went for the next bus which stopped to pick us up. the driver opened the storage for us to put our bags in but when we came to get on the bus he said, "no, no, no!" We had to quyickly grab our bags before he closed up and took off for Santiago. We have no idea why - just one of those unexplained mysteries. We ended up getting a Taxi which only cost us €16 but was well worth it. With the help of the taxi driver we found a small but nice hotel, left our packs and went exploring. Bought lunch at the Supermercado and took it to the rocks by the church. It was so nice - quiet and peaceful unlike Finisterre. sat for ages listening to the sound of the ocean, looking out to the distance and just thinking of all we have done. It´s been quite a journey. No one can do the Camino without some changes to their lives. How these will pan our when we get home, God only knows at this point. We went to Mass at the local church but it was very routine. The priest was done in 17 minutes (holly timed it) and it felt rather flat. We have had a full range of Mass experiences, some have been touching, others rather cold. Got the bus back to Santiago yesterday and have a hotel room for 2 nights. Yesterday I just wandered, did some shopping but went back to my room early because I was tired! Today I´ve been back to the Cathedral and just wandered round. I stayed for Mass and they swung the Censor again. This time I was right underneath it - what an awesome experience. It was flying and smoking like crazy. today there was some translation of the mass into English and it had a very special feeling. Sat with some Americans who had just come in they were tired. Brought back feelings of last Sunday. Tomorrow I head for Madrid on the train. sunday in Madrid and then home on Monday. Iam looking forward to seeing you all agian. It´s been an amazing Camino experience. Blessings Daphne

Santiago - finished, done!

So now we are finished. Got up at 4am this morning so that we could get to Santiago in time for the noon mass when they swing the big incense burner. Last night´s sleep was interupted for some by a major street party for the Feast of Corpus Christi. I slept through most of it - just love those ear plugs! but the music was still going when we left the Albergue at 5am. It was dark as we started walking so we needed flashlights to see the Camino signs, plus it was raining. Not a great start to the day. We were all hurting and tired so the pace was slow, but we managed to find our way through the woods in the dark. Walked for about 2 hours before coffee and then pushed on to Santiago. Arrived at the Cathedral about 10.30am. It was very exciting because we met all sorts of people who we have seen along the way: among them Lesley the Canadian girl who had so much trouble at the beginning, the 2 Korean girls, an Irish girl who is a surgeon/doctor but looks about 12, and a Belgium man who walked from Belgium about 2000+ km. It was like a great reunion. Got a seat in the church around 11am and waited for the Mass to start at 12. Great to sit down. At the end of the service they lit the censor and it swung right across the church - very exciting although we were a bit far back to fully appreciate it. It´s been quite an emotional day. We checked into the pilgrim office to receive our Compostela - certificate of proof that we did it all! Took a while to find accommodation but are settled into a small hotel near the cathedral. Spent some time exploring the town, shopping and of course eating. So that´s it folks until I get home. Time to relax and sleep. Can´t wait to see you all and be home to my own bed - but that´s not till next

Arco de Pino

A somewhat uneventful day, but following a very eventful night. Thank you God for earplugs and I missed all the excitement. Apparently we had a very drunk and abnoxious Ozzie in our dorm.Friends tried to get him to go to bed but to no avail, so we had the police in around 1:30am arresting him and coming in search of his belongings. First I heard of it was this morning when we got up at 5:30am! Good to know it was well taken care of by our Hospitalera and others. Today´s walk was fairly gentle, but not without uphills! We walked through shaded glades, with beautiful flowers. One garden looked very like my summer garden in Smithers with bleeding heart, fuscias, pink ground cover, African daisies in different colours. We lost Jenny for much of the day. Holly and I were in front and we both stepped off the trail to pee - Jenny must have gone by us and we didn´t notice. We got to our arranged meeting place and waited until Sharon and Jane arrived. They knew Jenny was in front of them. We waited a bit longer and then came into Arco de Pino. We had booked at this Albergue and when we showed up Jenny´s pack was here but no sign of her. She showed up after about an hour, so all is well. Things always work out on the Camino. Holly and I have just been for a snack and apparently there is a big music festival here at 6pm. Not sure how much of it we will take in. We´ll probably be in bed by 8pm. We want an early start tomorrow. So we only have one more day go - around 20km! VERY exciting! We plan to be up at 4am so we can be on the road by 5pm in order to get to Santiago for the noon mass. This is the time when they hoepefully will swing the huge incense burner - remember the "Way"? Apparently they don´t always do this ceremony but we really hope they will tomorrow. We are all ready to be finished and look forward to our pilgrim mass on Monday. This is when they recognize all those who have come in that day, not by name but by country. In many ways I don´t need the recognition because I know that I´ve done it but it will be good ending for us as a group and we will receive our Compostela. So till next time. Love Daphne

Ribadiso

Last night was interesting. We went for a pilgrim meal in the restaurant attached to the Albergue. We arrived early so we sat and waited for a while with drinks. Asthe waitress came to take our order she managed to pour a glass of water all over me. She was very embarrased and i was very wet. Went and changed and the rest of the meal was uneventful until the end when she brought us a tray of liqueurs - we guessed to make up for the dousing! We laughed and I was only glad that it was water not vinto tinto! Today is day 33 - only 2 to go. 42km more!!The days are closing in on us and we will soon be at our journey´s end. It feels bitter-sweet. I´m definitely ready to be done but it´s hard to imagine going back to life in the real world. Our group gets on well and we have shared plenty of good times and tought times over the last five weeks: We miss Charlotte since she is walking on the finisterre; but it will be sad to leave good friends behind: Today we´ve walked 26km. Left early this morning. The weather is cool but not raining perfect for the tired pilgrims. The highlight of the day was lunch. We stopped at Melide the best place to sample "pulpo" that is octopus. We were recommended to go to a particular restaurant for the best pulpo in Spain. The owner was holding a whole octopus up and its legs were dangling - he shook it to scare us and think that it was moving. We took the advice of the local and sampled it with, of course, Vino Tinto. How was it? well it was chewy but well flavoured: the thought of eating it was actually worse than the actualexpereince; but I´m not clamoring for more! we´ve had that experience! As we continued down the streets of Melide we saw am older man playig his harmonica. he was keen to show us pictures of him dressed up and performing on stage. We have seen a number of people riding horses and wonder if they are on their way to Santiago as well. They seem to come in groups. We passed a bakery with piles of the daily bread ready for pick up or delivery. We thought we were done with hils but not so - still plenty of them and more to come. We walked through several plantations of Eucalyptus trees which smelt beautiful. The trail was well shaded and we crossed streams on very solid rock bridges. So the end of another day on the Camino. Pilgrim meal to come

Palas de Rei

Had a relaxing afternoon and evening in Portomarin. There was a speicial concert in the church for pilgrims at 6pm. A man played the flute, then sang to his guitar. The accousitices were great and the music was so reflective of the Camino. Good supper and Mass before bed at 8:45pm. It´s hard to believe that I am in bed before 9pm most days and sleep until 5:45. Last night was good. We slept in a huge dorm - something like 120 people in one great big room separated by curtains but it was clean and spacious and the snoring wasn´t nearly as bad as the night before (at least so I am told, my ear plugs do a great job!) This morning we were ready to go by 6:30 but the Albergue ladies came in and made coffee and it was pouring rain. So of course we stayed and had our morning coffee before we even started walking! We put on our rain gear and were ready to head out when we realized it had stopped raining. In the space of 5 minutes the street changed from a roaring torrent of rain water to just wet. Galicia does a good job of dealing with horrendous downpours, they build the strets and trails to accomodate the rain. We were out of the door by 7am but somehow had great difficulty finding our way out of town. I guess we discovered that the map and the big signs are right! We did a complete circle of the town, up and down steps before we finally hit the trail. It took us almost an hour. We noticed today a great increase in the number of pilgrims on the trail. Many people do the stretch from Sarria to Santiago - the last 100m. and the minimum to get the pilgrim certificate at the end. We continue to meet interesting people. There were 10 Irish girls today who were completing a 5 day adventure challenge for their college. I told one to enjoy the journey - her response "enjoy is hardly a word I would use to describe it." Another said, "Some people even walk from St. Jean." That would be us!! If we think we´ve come a long way, what about those who have walked from their homes in France, Belgium or Italy. Some have been on the road since the beginning of April. One lady was walking in the other direction from Santiago to Glastonbury in England. Everyone´s Camino is different - no one´s is better or worse than others. Each is unique. Today we reconnected with 2 girls from Korea who we haven´t seen for weeks. It´s like seeing old friends again. We also met new people from Canada who started just before us in St. Jean! The scenery today was beautiful. Galacia is so lush. Mind you we´ve walked through a number of farming areas that definitely have that "country" small. We were told that the climb over O Cebreiro was the last climb we would have to do. Oh yes? Most of today was uphill - but I have to admit it wasn´t too bad. (no, Harry it is not all down hill from Triacastela!) The weather was cool so it made it conducive to walking a bit faster. The book tells me we only have 68km to go - hard to believe it will ever end!!I have to admit it is the most difficult thing I have ever done, but it is also very rewarding. God is alive and well on the Camino. There are so many moments that truly are a blessing - especially when we least expect them. so 3 more days until we reach Santiago. It is hard not to look forward now but I wouldn´t change any of it. It is amazing and will take me a long time to figure it all out. Right now I can´t even remember what we did or where we stayed. Fortunately I have pictures, the guide book and my journal to jog my memory! Thank you for all your prayers. I am so thankful to have the support of so many people in this pilgrimage. You have all played a part. Blessings till next time. Daphne

Portomarin

A shorter day today and we´ve broken 100km!! Last night´s albergue was a challenge a couple of people checked in and a few minutes later checked out! Actually it was not the one we thought we were at but it was where we ended up. The shower situation was a challenge as there was no place to take off clothes behind a curtain, so it was strip down and jump in the shower before the next man came in. Thanks to Jane for policing the situation! The laundry facilities were not clean- moss in the dirty sink with bugs crawling round. I managed to wash 2 itmes of clothing without anything touching the sink! Apparently the snoring during the night was like a symphony. I am particularly thankful for 2 things on this trip: first happy feet. Even after 700km they are serving me well, no blisters and only minor irritations which have quickly resolved themselves. The second is ear plugs and good sleep. I have to admit I was not sure how I would do sleeping a huge rooms with a cacophony of nightime snorers but with the assistance of ear plugs I have slept amazingly well. All is good! Today´s walk was beautiful. Now we are in Galicia the scenery is very lush. We haven´t had rain that has affected our walking. It rained last during the evening and the air is damp but the cooler temps make for easier days. We left at 6:30am and found coffee after about 8km. We were approaching Portomarin and I was feeling very hungry but determined not to complain (I appear to have a reputation as the one who needs\wants food) We had gone less than 50m when there was a table at the side of the trail with fruit, cookies and drinks to buy. Another amazing Camino moment. I love those God given times, those special moments when we are given, not necessarily what we want but we get what we need. Arrived in Portomarin shortly after noon. Did the usual shower, laundry etc. and went in search of lunch. Had Empinada with meat - kind of like a huge pizza pop cut in slices. It was good. Now we are ready for a siesta. Thinking of you all, especially Ellia, Declan, Brynn and Nigel. Aly and Zach - Hope the renos are still on track. We hope to be in Santiago on Sunday, take part in the pilgrim Mass on Monday and then take the bus to Finisterre. It´s hard to believe that our journey is coming to an end. It will be a different life when I no longer live out of a back pack and have to think of other things except walking, eating and sleeping. Blessings Daphne

Samos and Barbadolo

Internet continues to be a challenge but here I go again. Yesterday was a short day. Had coffee before we left Triacastela which was a real treat. We walked mainly along roads to the community of Samos which is a monastery around which the town is built. We decided to check into another albergue because we didn´t want to hang around until 3pm when the monstery Alberge opened. It was a very hot day. Had lunch in a cafe and waited until the monastery opened at 4.30pm. Joined a tour which was in English but mainly German people. The monastery was amazing. Beautiful murals all round the cloisters. The church was gorgeous. It was hard to take in all the info we were given but we had to be careful not to be critical of the German tourists! After supper we went to Vespers and Mass in the church. There were several monks - mostly rather old but they were sweet. They sang Vespers - not always in time or tune with the organ. It was followed by mass which was quite etherial (if that is the right word?) This morning we were up bright and early ready to be on the road, only to discover that we couldn´t get out of the Alberge because the door was locked and the key was stuck between the door and the door jam. After much trying we all passed the packs out of the window and climbed out after them. A real Camino moment! The next moment was as we were walking down a small country lane we realized that there were cows coming behind us! The farmer´s wife had a stick and was attempting to keep the cows in line. They got a gentle tap if they didn´t cooperate! We followed them for several minutes really neat. Further along the trail we came to a little church which was locked but there was a bell. I rang the bell and thought of Zita at Quick!! A magical Camino moment. We stopped for coffee in Sarria and went into a couple of churches. Do you get the idea that there are alot of churches along the way? As we came out we were greeted by 2 ladies from Galicia who were very keen to know how we liked the Camino. Thye chatted in Spanish and in French and we really didn´t understand each other but we laughed alot. They loved to tell us about the Camino and were impressed that we had walked all the way from St. Jean. Another Camino moment! We walked for another 5km to Barbadelo and checked into an Albergue here. Somehow we got confused as to which we were going to and ended up at the wrong one. However we do have a bed but it is the most basic we have come across. There was moss in the laundry sink and bugs floating. Oh the joys. As we approach the end of our journey it is more difficult to focus on the present and not be looking forward to the fact that we only have 5 more days of walking! Isn´t that amazing?! The scenery is amazing and we are in Galacia which is very lush ie quite wet. Someone said we have 5 days of rain coming! but we have been very lucky with the weather. So the end of another day on the Camino which lots of joys and treasures. Tomorrow we go on and hope to get to Santiago by Sunday. Hope all is well back home. I always love to read your comments. Till later. Daphnew

La Faba and Triacastela

3 days further along the trail and about 120km to go. Sat we left Villafranca and the trail paralleled the road for most of the way. We made good progress for most of the day but the last 5 km seemed like an eternity. Up hill through beautiful forests but at the end of the day it was long! We stayed at an Albergue that was run by a German confraternity. It was at the top of the mountain - or almost so apart from the restaurant where we ate supper and some farms, there wasn´t much there. Very relaxing. In the evening a group of us came together in the church and sang acouple of English songs, spent time in prayer listening to music from Taize. For the end we all stood around the altar and each group in turn prayed the Lord´s prayer inour own languate: German, spanish, english, croatian and dutch. A good end to a long day. Yesterday we had been warned about the climb to O Cebreiro and the long down hill so we decided to send our packs ahead. The climb was really quite short - in fact easier than the day before. We climbed up to the clouds but they dispersed before we got there. When we arrivedit was a surprise to see gift shops as well as the welcome coffee bar. There were several tourists but again once they had moved on it was a calm serene place. Waited long enough for the church to open. It was beautiful - together with a pilgrim prayer of St Faba. We then had to embark on the rest of our 26km day, only having covered 4km by 9am. The track was mostly on the hill tops with amazing views. Had lunch at Hospital de la condesa with cickens running around the tables. One tried to fight Jenny for her Bocadillo, but Jenny won! At Biduedo we were follwoing the track that went through farm yards when 2 ladies dressed in their aprons met us. They were carrying a plate covered withe a tea towel. Under the towel was a plate full of crepes fresh from the pan and still warm. They offered them to us, sprinkled them with sugar and gave them to us, for a donation of course, but no photos! Not sure about food safe rules here not nearly as strict as at home. the downhil was very long but it wasn´t too hot but we were ready to find an Albergue in Triacastela. Locating our packs was a bit of an issue. Holly has sent hers on several times with no problem but Jenny and I tried 5 places until a lady called the taxi company for us to find out where they were left. Running out of time so till later. Daphne

Villafranca del Bierzo

Another very hot day but fortunately we got an early start. Last night I went to Mass at the church in Ponferrada. Each Mass is interesting much is like the Anglican service so I am getting to follow along. I am a little surprised at how inpersonal the service was. There is no contact between the Priest and the people, except in receiving the bread. However last night there was some singing which made the service more meaningful for me. Strange as it may sound I don´t sleep very well when we get a hotel or pension. Not sure what it that is all about but I do sleep well in the dorms in the Albergue. Who would have thought that was possible - but I do use ear plugs to muffle out the snoring. It was great to be going so early today. Walking in the early morning is a gift. We passed the usual number of churches and Ermitas. One of the churches in Cacabelos was actually open which is always a surprise. I am quite intrigued by the churches that seem to be built in the Templar style. They are generally less ornate than the others but are beautiful. We passed another artisan carving pilgrim shells out of a variety of different types of wood. He was working on the side of the trail in a shaded part. I couldn´t resist buying one made from wood that used to be in a church. Each village we passed through had very narrow streets with overhanging parts - some of which were a danger even for me to walk under. Sure they wouldn´t be legal in Canada. Same with food hygiene, everything is clean but wouldn´tpass food safe regulations back home! Have we gone a bit too far in such areas? Most villages have their own graveyard but many of the newer ones have gone to columariaums not just for ashes but for bodies too. Some have their own little house! We are back in wine making country - a different area called Bierzo. This afternoon we walked through acres and acres of grapvines at different stages of development. Interesting but a challenge in the intense heat. Stopped for lunch in a bar along the road and had a great bocadillo with cheese and real tomatoes. Sometimes when we ask for cheese and tomato we get cheese and some sort of tomato sauce (not ketchup) which is not what we first expected but is actually OK because it moistens the bread. Tonight we have got separated from the group, but in true Camino style all will be well. I am sure we will meet up tomorrow. Thanks for all your comments. Your messages of inspiration continue to help me along the way and I carry you all with me as we come to the last quarter of our pilgrimage. I continue to be amazed at how well we are doing but I only remember what I have done today - if that! I can´t always remember where I stayed last night but that is Camino brain -live in the moment. A and Z - Hope the renos continue to move along and the painting parties have helped get the job done. Rach -I laughed at Declan´s comment about the Basque SS Klondike! Give them all hugs from Nain - sure miss them. Love Daphne

Rabanal, Riego de Ambros and Ponferrada

How the days are going! Today is day 25 - can you believe it? No 2 days are the same but it is difficult to separate each day. New adventures, interesting people and of course the treasures along the way. Tues. left Astorga early, some of the group waited until the P.O. opened so they could mail things on to Santiago. My complaint on Monday was that churches are not open - but Tuesday we had hardly left Astorga when we came across a small Ermita which was open. Plan was to go a little further but when we arrived in Rabanal we discovered that there would be sung Gregorian Chant at 7pm so we decided to stay the night in a very nice hostel run by English volunteers - tea and biscuitsin the garden at 5pm. Coffee stop was amazing too - a lovely lady treted us royally and we bought a veggie snadwich. It was displayed like a cake and she cut us a slice to take with us. Delicious! The servicesint he evening were beautiful - Vespers at 7pm and Compline at 9:30pm. 2 german Benedictine monks and a novice chanted most of the service. It certainly was heavenly music. Yesterday we walked through amazing countryside - God´s garden of purple and white heather, yellow broom and numerous other flowers spread across the hills and valleys. It was the day that we came to the Cruz de Ferro - the iron cross where pilgrims bring rocks from all over the world and leave them at the foot of the cross. On arrival it looked like Grand Central station, people were lined up and it was incredibily busy. It was not what I expected and initially I was very disappointed. However it didn´t take long for a group of bikers to leave and peace came on the place. We all laid ou stones: I had brought 4, one from Maggie´s garden in Macclesfield - for those who have gone before me, one given to me by Diane after our trip to Sorrento last year, speakking of those in my life right now and the gifts that you all bring and 2 little ones found by Declan and Ellia representing the hopes and dreams of the future. It was quite an emotional moment, but that is the Camino. As we continued on we passed a little standon the side of the trail where someone had laid out bananas and juice, with a box for donations. It is such a treat to find such places. Then a lady selling fresh cherries - yum! MOst of the day was an up hill climb followed by a long down hill. We were grateful for lunch in Acebo and a hostel in Riego de Ambros. Today we have walked into Ponferrada. Our plan was to go further but we all wanted to see old the Templar castle and it is hot so we have found a small hotel and once again are enjoying the luxuries of real sheets and towels! So my friends we are almost 3/4 the way along, comin gup to the 600km mark tomorrow. Probably 9-10 more walking days. It´s still incredibly amazing in every respect, my feet and body continue to hold up - thank you God!

Astorga

Supper last night was interesting. Lots of salad followed by some unidentifiable meat and dessert. The hospitalier then brought out liquers. Left San Martin del Camino at 6:30am. Only 7km to a perfect coffee spot in Hospital de Orbigo. Sat on a balcony overlooking the best preserved medieval bridge in Spain dating from the 13th century. We then took the cross country route over the hills. It was beautiful but very dfferent from what we had alredy seen. Much more scrubby. The trail was along well marked gravel paths with shade. The best was a small snack bar on the top of the hills. It was like something out of the 60s but there was orgnaic fruits and juices and much more all by donation. The road into Astorga seemed long as we entered the industrial area. It´s good to be all together again although we are walking separately at our own pace. Arrived here and now ready to see the town. MOre later. Daphne

To Leon and San Martin

Anther couple of days past but now we are over half way along the Camino. It feels like quite an accomplishment already but we still have over 300 km to go! Yesterday mornign we did a ¨short day¨from Terridillos to Sanaguin. Only about 14km so got there very quickly. We spent the day looking around the town and then took a train to Leon. Sanagun was interesting. We hit the market with masses of stalls selling clothing, jewellry and trinkets of all sorts. Lots of excited voices attempting to sell their wares. On the side of the trail we found a small labyrinth which we had to walk. The train was a treat. It only took about 45 minutes with 3 stops to get into Leon where we planned to meet up with the rest of our group. There was a moment of guilt when we saw pilgrims walking beside the train track but the feeling didn´t last. Walked in to the centre of Leon and toured the cathedral. It was a beautiful building with lots of history but I found it strange that all the little chapels that invited prayer were locked. It took us a while to find the hotel that Holly had booked for us. It was a good 20 min. walk from the centre. However it was luxury! We had real towels, real sheets and a bath. Such little luxuries are a big deal on the Camino. We finally met up with everyone about 9:30pm. It was really good to be back together. We had all missed the group although in some ways it was easier to organize a group of 3 that a group of 6. UP early this am and walked the long walk out of Leon. We chose to take an alternate route so that we could find a hostel and cut the 30km day tomorrow. 2 x 26km days are more manageable than a 20km and a 30km day. walked past the San Marcos hotel - where they stayed in the Way! Very exotic. Found our morning coffe and a delightful man who had trays of cookies, nuts and other nibblies outside his house specially for pilgrims. One of those Camino moments. Another was to find an old bell tower with 3 storks nests on top each with a stork guarding her young. Jenny, Charlotte and I arrived before the others. I tried to order 2 glasses of wine. the lady wouldn´t sell me 2 glasses but she would sell me a bottle for €2. Needless to say it wasn´t the best wine. So here ends another day on the Camino. All that is left ot do is to show up for our Pilgrim meal at 7pm. What a life. It´s good to be all together again although we are still walking at our own pace. I can´t believe how fast I am walking. Blessings to all. till next time. Dophne

4 days on Mesata

Left Burgos on Tuesday and it is now Friday. Life on the Mesata is different, very little internet access but it is amazing. Walking the Mesata is a bit like driving the prairies in Canada although I have been surprised by how lush the vegetation is. We have walked along streams with all the noises that brings: frogs, birds and other pilgrim effects and long, long stretches of straight trails surrounded by grain fields. There has been shade in places but there have been long stretches of hot, hot sun. In Burgos the group decided to break into 2 for the Mesata and we will all meet again tomorrow night in Leon. Jenny, Charlotte and I have done some incredibly long days. On Tuesday we walked 32km and spent the night in Hontanas, a very small vilage very dependent on the Camino. Accomodation was adequate but the food was excellent. The whole dorm was quiet by about 9pm we were all exhausted. Wed. was another 30km day. We stopped at the newly renovated church of St. Anton, notorious for curing pilrim allergies to the rye bread of north Europe. The cure was feed them wheat and make them walk - a miracle. On to Boadillo where we stayed in a private hostel with lovely shaded grounds. The church was undergoing renovations. First it was amazing to find the church open, many are closed during the week but is was more strange to see wheelbarrows full of concrete being pushed in, the whole altar area was being retiled. Again the food was excellent served in the Auberge. Thursday we continued to Carrion de los Condes - 26km. After the rain and the cool weather earlier in the trip we are now experiencing the heat. Getting up before 6am and trying to get ahead of the intense sun is good but exhausting. We have tried to make our destination by no later than 3pm. Some days I have foudn the heat brutal by 2or 3 in the afternoon. Today for some reason it was better. After we left Carrion this morning at 6am there was no where to buy food so we stocked up last night. However we did encounter some enterprising Spaniards who brought coffee to the pilgrims in the middle of nowhere. Truly a gift of the Camino. Last night in Carrion we went to a pilgrim mass which was amazing. The priest interpreted the key points of the service into English which in itself was a gift. At the end all the pilgrims came forwarded and he laid hands on each of us and blessed us. This ws the first service that I have really connected with. He made us all welcome and encouraged all to participate in the Mass. Time is running out so that´s it for today. Blessings to all. Daphne

Day of rest in Burgos

We decided last night that we would take a day of rest today. There is so much to see in Burgos. We toured the cathedral yesterday afternoon. It was amazing. There is so much history and the art work and carvings are out of this world. We coudl easily spend another day here. Went to Mass in the Cathedral last night. Even though I don´t understand the Spanish, I am amazed at how much of the service I follow. The Gloria, sanctus, creed and Lord´s prayer are easy to pick up. Slept in until 7am at the Auberge but it is really quite difficult to sleep when the rest of the world is alive and moving. I was on a top bunk but the wall between me and the next guy - a Camino biker - day didn´t go to the ceiling. A very strange feeling but I managed to get over it and slept. Can only stay one night in the Auberge so we had to find a Pension for tonight. There are only 3 of us in the room and there is a bath! Great excitement and luxury! Left our packs and went for breakfast - coffee, freshly sqeezed orange juice and a muffin. Discoverd that all the sites we wanted to see are closed on Monday, just one of those things in Spain! Spent the morning wandering the town and then lunch of more coffee and sugar - very delicious cakes! Sure is a sugar high day! This afternoon Jenny, Charlotte and I walked up to the castle at the top of the town. Wonderful views. Jenny and I continued and wandered further along the river to find more churches - have I mentioned churches before? Lots of them but very few open. Back to the Pension and out for Tapas for supper. What a life! Tomorrow we are back on the trail - the Mesata. Most of the issues with the Mesata come from the heat - that doesn´t appear to be an issue for us. Hight today was 10 degrees. Freezing! Bring on some heat - at least a little! I feel very fortunate that my feet are holding up - but still 3 weeks to go. Thanks for all your messages and prayers. Blessings Daphne

Atapuerca and Burgos

Internet has been a bit of a challenge but I have just posted a message which I wrote 2 days ago. Yesterday Jenny and I hung back so that we could send Holly´s pack on so set off just after 7am. Rain has been the issue of the last days with temps about 8-10 degrees - bbrrrr! The trail yesterday was steep out of Villafranca. It was mostly through trees, not the most exciting. The rain was heavy and coffee was not until 10km along but when we got it, it was soo good! You may have guessed how important food and coffee are for us. We covered about 22km to Atapuerta. The hope was that we would be able to see ancient caves but we were not able to get a tour. The hostel was very compact. We are always appreciative of the facilities whatever they may be. It was 6 of us to a small room, bathrooms 3 sinks in a row with no space between. We had a ratio of 4 women to 6 men as opposed to the night before which was 7 women to 1 man. There was lots of outside seating but it was raining! We wandered around the town looking for an open restaurant but only found one in which, despite the no smoking sign, the owner was smoking. Ended up back where we started and had a great dinner which wasn´t a pilgrim meal. This morning we were on the road from Atapuerta by 6:30 in the pouring rain. The terrain changed to more open meadows with sheep. The trail was very muddy and slippery. I think we sped up looking for that morning coffee. Of course when we found it about 8km in it tasted amazing. We somehow missed the turn off to the scenic route into Burgos and came in through the commercial area. It was long - very long. I was quite sure we were close to the hostel only to see a sign that said 2.5km to go. Arrived about 12:15 but had to join the line up to get in. It took about 45 minutes. Another Camino expereince. The hostel is a very modern facility and we are just settling in. The Camino contiues to offer its challenges, certainly not a walk in the park. Today we have walked for 2 weeks - amazing. In the pouring rain we passed a house that had painted "Buen Camino Pelegrino" on it´s driveway in huge letters. A real lift to the spirits of drenched and tired pelegrinos. Tomorrow we begin the Mesata traditionally long and hot but unless the weather changes the heat won´t be a problem! Lots of hugs especially for the little ones. Thanks for all your messages of encouragement. They are really appreciated when the going gets tough. Daphne

Villafranca Montes de Oca

Today is another sort day. Jenny and I stayed behind in Belorado to mail some parcels to Canada. It was amazingly easy. A very helpful lady, so hopefully for Jenny and Sharon their parcels will get through. We walked about 12km through some little villages. Interesting to see the bread van arrive in town amid much honking to let people know they are there!! The next village had the mobile refrigerated van with dairy products and frozen goods. Ladies came from all directions. Not sure how often the vans come through. Had coffee in a little cafe in Villambistia. Arrived in Villafranca in time to shower and go to the Supermercado to get our lunch. This afternoon I lay in the grounds of this amazing hostel which is part of the pilgrim hospice of San Antonio. Part of it is a fancy hotel and there is place at the back for us pilgrims. The people are amazing. They are so helpful. We lay on the grass listening to Oliver Schroererś Camino tape in the cloud/sunshine. The Camino is truly an amazing place - the people, the history, the churches. Today we passed several older couples tending their fields. It looked like they were ready to go home by 10:30am - like the day was done. HOpe all is well at home. Daphne

Santo Domingo and Belorado

2 more days closer to Santiago. Yesterday was a short day. We slept in until 6am (I can´t believe I call that sleeping in!)because we only planned on walking just over 15km. Our group needed a day off but a short day happened instead. Coee was at Cirueña golf course. Cirueña was a really creepy place. It looked very modern but so many of the buildings were shut up and for sale or lease. We weren´t sure whether pilgrims would be welcome at the golf course, so we asked. Perergrinos and all are welcome - so we settled into coffee and pastries. Arrived at Santo Domingo de la Calzada just before noon and joined the line up for an albergue. It was clean and modern but the internet wouldn´t accept my blog, hence no report yesterday. Lunch sitting in the square in the sun eating Spanish Pizza. All good. We had to check out the church and see the chickens. Live chickens in the church really! Actually they were hard to find, hidden behind glass way up high! I had imagined them running around part of the sanctuary. There is a legend as to why they are there - too much detail to add to the blog. Spanish churches are amazingly ornate. In fact some of the architexture we saw in Santo Domingo was very overwhelming. Interesting but I find excessive. Last night a foot specialist came to the hostel to take care of pilgrims feet. He had a line up of clients incuding several of our group. He was fairly aggressive - there was plenty of moans and gtroans - but he seemed to know what he was doing and people came away with well bandaged feet. Today we were up at 5:30 and walked the 23 km to Belorado. We passed through several villages none of which were on pilgrim time. No coffee until 8:45 and then it was instant! so we just walked on getting here about 12:30. Everyone of us walked today which is amazing because feet are hurting. Some sent their bags on but made it. Each of us is on our own camino and we don´t know what each day will bring. Food was certainly welcome after we showered and washed clothes. A day´s walk on a yogurt, a banana and a cup of instant coffee doesn´t quite make it! I am not quite sure where the Spanish summer is because today was cold. I didn´t get warm until I had a warmish shower and lunch. Today is day 14 ad we passed a sign Santiago 576km so we are closer than we were 14 days ago. We are starting to get into the routine but it is still tiring and hard going. But we are still smiling. Please will someone reading this call D and wish her a happy birthday from me - have been thinking of her along the way. till next time. Daphne

Azofra

Day 9 seemed to fly by! How can this happen? For the first time I got to our destination and still had energy to spare. Our group is starting to fall apart a bit with injuries. Holly is still suffering from shin splints and today Jane joined her in taking the bus. The remaining 4 of us left Navarrete at 7am. Another cold morning. Not sure of what the temperature was but by the time we got to coffee at Ventosa my hands were hardly working! Early in the morning we were a bit confused - the sun appeared to be rising ahead of us which of course was wrong. The arrows were pointing in the right direction and we were following. The joke was on us when we realized the rising sun was reflected in a tall building aheadof us. Coffee at 9am seemed to come after a very quick walk. The whole day we walked through vineyards - some well established, others new. There was a lovely breeze which kept us cool. On the way into Najera we saw a sign for free coffeee for pilgrims who arrived before noon. Found the restuarant at 11:40 so a great treat to sit out in the sun and restour feet. Had lunch of fresh bread and local cheese - it´s becomg a habit. Bumped into Holly and Jane who had just arrived by bus in Najera. It´s amazing who we keep bumping into on the Camino. We stay in the same place or pass each other on the trail and suddenly days later they show up again. However there are many who we don´t see because they are way too fast. The 4 of us arrived here in Azofra at 1:30 expeccting to see Holly and Jane. But they had to take a taxi and of course it was siesta time. We found a hostel and then hung out in the town square drinking wine until they showed up. 2 glasses of wine cost 2 euros! Admittingly they were small glasses - but a fun bargain. Now the laundry is done we are showered and ready for a pilgrim meal. Miss you all - big hugs for Ellia, Declan, Brynn and Nigel. Really appreciate hearing from you all (either comments onthe blog or emails to my yahoo account!) - sorry not many personal responses but the blogg is taking my time. till next time, Daphne

Navarrette

Day 8 - amazing! I think we have walked about 180km so far. Charlotte stayed behind until the banks opened as she had an issue with her card yesterday. She caught up with us after we arrived here. Left Viana early and walked the 10km into Longrono hoping for cafe con leche. Was a bit of an effort to find it because the town hadn´t really woken up yet. Finally a sidewalk cafe near the square and some sweet bakeries close by. We can spend quite a bit of time looking for the perfect coffee. This was a good one! Longrono was the first big city that we walked into and out of. It felt quite long through industry on the outsikirts and traffic in the city. The locals are amazing. If we appear lost they are very happy to lead us back onto the trail.The town or municipality have created a pilgrim path which separates pilgrims from cars. There was one stretch of road which was separated from the pilgrim path by a chain link fence in which people had woven crosses. It was interesting to reflect on that permeable barrier between the pilgrim path and the rest of the world. It is always a shock when we walk from the quiet peaceful country and suddenly find ourselves crossing a major highway. The weather today has been hot for most of the day but it astarted off quite cold. I had to get out my mitts and touque! As we entered Logrono we were met by the neice of one of the original pilgrim monitors, Felisa. Quite an imposing lady but the coffee didn´t look that great so we moved on. The vines are just starting to show signs of leaves after they had been heavily pruned back. Most of our walking for the last few days has been through vineyards. Today we entered the Riajara area of wine production. Holly left us at Logrono and took the bus here because her legs are still hurting. But she was one of our angels of the day as she managed to book us into a private aubergue which is lovely. After our usual chores we headed for the Tapas bar -the first one that we have found on the Camino. Had the local Vino Tinto and a selection of Tapas. Sure beats the usual pilgrim meal which is adequate but each menu is fairly similar. The churches here are amazing - very ornate, walls carved and guilded. How they keep the insides so clean and shiney I have no idea. Heading to Mass at 8pm. Blessings to all. Daphne

Viana

Breakfast at 6am and then on the trail. Good progress this morning with Cafe con leche at Torres del Rio. Holly was in great pain so took a cab to Viana. Said goodbye to Zita and Heather as they marched ahead. We´ll see them next in Smithers. Stopped at another Knights Templar church with amazing stone carvings around the domed ceiling. Looked very similar to the church at Eunate of a few days ago. A lovely lady took our money and watched us carefully. Just a few km. further on we came across another small curch what appears to be called Ermita. A very friendly man led us inside. Very small but a beautiful altar with fresh lilies and roses but no seats. Came across a number of small stone structures which we couldn´t decide what they were. In the end we think they are some of the original refugios or shelters for pilgrims. A very small doorway with a raised stone bed. Thank God for good mattresses! The day got progressively hotter with less trees but we walked into Viana about 1:30. Staying in the municipal hostel where the bunk beds are 3 high!! Fortunately I am only in the middle. The top looks way too scary. After our usual chores of arriving we wandered around the town. Sitting in the sqaure outside with the wind blowing in all directions we attempted to eat lumch. The going is tough but we are hanging in with avariety of minor ailments. My only complaint is a bit of sunburn so I am very thankful. The scenery is very varied with olive trees, almond trees and many vineyards to pass through. The weather is pretty good temp for hiking as long as we set out early. Hope all is well at home. Till next time. Daphne

Los Arcos cont

Just had an error message so I cut short in the hope I wouldn´t lose my post. Today we were blessed with so many amazing happenings before 10:30am. First we went to the Wine Fountain - yes there was wine coming out of the spout at 8am. we drank from our pilgrim shells and shared the bread and wine together. A very special time. Onwards to cafe con leche served by a lady who was definitely an angel. She rushed to serve the line up of pilgrims, and then flew to clean up after us. We were about to leave when an old man hobbled into the square with one crutch. He wanted to give us a pilgrim stamp. We had to follow him around and up and down to his home where he proudly stamped our pilgrim passports. It was a privilege to get a glimpse of his home. We ended up spending an hour in the village, a long cafe break, but it was all worth it. It´s hard to describe how much the local people give to the pilgrims. The route is so well marked (at least so far). People greet us and wish us a Buen Camino. When we are about to make a wrong turn someone points us in th eright direction. We climbed to a church at the top of a hill and were met by another gentle, gentleman. He guided us intot he church, showed us where to put in our euro to turn on the lights. He proudly showed us what I beleive was a solid silver cross behind glass. He was so proud of his church and wanted us to share it. The heat today was not quite as intense as yesterday but still hot. My feet are still holding up although my muscles are getting a bit sore. Sleeping in the dorms is OK. thank you god for ear plugs! We arrived in Los Arcos about 3pm and did the usual shower, laundry and now it´s time for a beer! Cool beer at the end of the day - mmmmm! Thank you for all the kind messages you sent with me - you are in my thoughts and prayers each day. Hope all is well on the home front with renos and my special wee ones. Till next time Daphne

Los Arcos

Day 5 and 6 are now a reality. Left Puenta la Reina at 6:30 am. We are getting better at the early days because of the heat. The early mornings are cool and quiet. The journey took us through vineyards and olive trees but by the end of the day the heat was intense. A gift is the number of little cafes along the way where the cafe con leche is always a treat. Lunch is often bagette and cheese and yogurt. By afternoon the heat was intense and the shade was minimal. Just making it into Estella was a challenge. >I am fortunate that I still have happy feet unlike many of our fellow travellers who are blistered and hurting. Last night we met up with Zits and Heather in the square in Estella. Friday night and it was rocking.

Puenta La Reina 2

Still not sure what is hapning. Sorry if you are getting repeated info. but it looked like I had lost some. Today was another glorious day. Left Cizur Menor at 6:30am. but we left without our packs. It was an odd feeling not havin gmy friend with me!! We sent them on to an alberge in Puerta La Reina to guarantee us a bed for tonight. After our expereince on day 2 we are a little leary of not gettin a bed. The walk was much easier with out all my stuff but I kind of missed it. Tomorrow we can get the same deal but I think I will just lighten the pack. The scenery was spectacular. The morning was a climb to Alto Mezquiriz was strenous but nothing compared to day 1. The summit where the sky line was surrounded with wind mills was amazing. Passed irnon statues of pilgrims in years gone by. Many shrines along the way to commemorate lost or deceased pilgrims. Lunch at Uterga and then a detour to Eunate. This is a church linked to the Knights Templar who defended many pilgrims. It is bilt on the style of the Holy SCepulchre in Jerusalem. A beautiful church surrounded by farm land. It is utterly amazing when we think of how many steps have gone before us. Continued on to Puerta La Reina which is a very old town with very narrow streets and of course the famous bridge. We were united with our pack, showered, did laundry and now it´s time to eat. a very simple life. Love it. Till next time. Daphne

Puenta la Reina

Getting used to the internet here is a challenge. Yesterday I cut short because my time was runnin gout. Day 2 from Roncavalles to Pamplona proved to be our next adventure. We walked for most of the day in the rain. Breakfast in burgette and lunch at Gerendiain. Lots of pilgrims and not many places to get out of the rain. but ponchos and rain gear did their thing. Arrived at Zubiri about 4pm. We were alll very sore and ready for the end of the day but alas it was not tobe because there was no room at the Inn in Zubiri. No room at any Inn. Nothing! So we motored on to Larrasoana which was another 5km. Very tired, very weary, but again no room at the Inn. but local people were amazing. We found a taxi driver who knew someone with a Pension in Pamplona. Aftr a very long 10 minutes more like 45 min. 5 of us piled inot a taxi and were trasported through torrential rain to the centreof Pamplons. Were we cheating? We were eternally grateful that we got a bed that night. It was not what we ex`pected or where we expected but it was good, real good. We had a suite on the 3rd floor with 3 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. That was the best. Had a quick snack at the hotel next door then crashed into bed. That was day 2.

Day 3 what an adventure

In Cizur Menur just outside Pamplona. Left St. Jean early MOnday am. Weather was glorious but the going was tough. We climbed for most of the day first along little roads, then into the mountains. First stop at Orrison about 10km for coffee and change of socks. The journey upwards continued passing flocks of sheep and horses wearing horse bells. the higher we go the stronger the winds became. It was reminiscient of the hills at love to every one Daphne

Ready to go

Perfect journey from Manchester to Paris. Amazingly Sharon and I met up in CDG airport. Zita and Heather joined us at the hotel.  A short night's sleep to make our flight to Biarritz.  Train took us on a smooth journey through lush valley with some sheep shorn and other ready for the shears and spectacular scenery.  St. Jean Pied de Port at the end of the line. A delightfully serene city within its walls contrasted by the hustle and bustle on the otherside. A good night's sleep in a hotel with yummy crepes for dinner. Service at the Cathedral this morning; checked into our hostel with a very kind Dutch hostess.  We are now registered pilgrims. Forecast for tomorrow is sun and fun! Zita and Heqther started todqy. We will see them in Roncevalles. We are ready to go!

Pre- Camino lessons

It's amazing how I am already learning lessons that will aid my journey which begins next Monday. Lesson no. 1 "Where, O where did my little pack go? O where, O where did it go?" YVR? YYC? LHR? but not Manchester! I admit I was a little panicky - all those weeks of planning packing and repacking was all MIA. The man at the BMI info center was very optomistic. I'd get it by noon on Sunday! Thank God!he was almost right. It showed up on the doorstep at 5pm. Lesson no. 1 - be calm - don't panic! Lesson no. 2 - things may not go as planned. Sunday we headed to the hills with Maggie's ashes. The wind was blowing - the rain coming down sideways. 15 of us attempted to get out of the cars. Opening the doors was a challenge. Hanging on and staying on the path were more. Yuri at 2 years old was the first to protest. Yumae at 7 was a trooper. But less than 100 meters along the path we abandoned our mission. Maggie would have though we were nuts to even try! REturned to the cars - soaked through. The return home was another challenge - trees down all over the place. Back home - a cup of tea and a feeling that the time will be right somewhere in the future to release Maggie to the hills. All will be well.

The myth

The story tells that St. James the greater, apostle of Jesus, sailed to Galicia to minister to the pagan population of the area.  It appears his ministry was not very successful and he returned to Jerusalem where he was beheaded by Herod in 42 CE.  His body was brought back to the the Iberian peninsula and eventually laid to rest near the present day Santiago.  Pilgrims have made the journey to Santiago for over 1000 years.  In importance it followed pilgrimages to Jerusalem and Rome.  It reached its peak in the Middle ages when much of the infrastructure that supports the pilgrims was established: the hostels were organized by religious orders, some bridges were constructed and businesses set up.  Later the number of pilgrims tapered off but never really died out.  Pilgrims usually began their journey from where they lived - no planes to get them to St Jean Pied de Port.  Often the pilgrimage was done as a penance but today pilgrims have their own reasons for setting off on this journey.  They may be religious, physical, spiritual or emotional - everyone makes their own pilgrimage.  My reasons?  More of that later.