Villafranca del Bierzo

Another very hot day but fortunately we got an early start. Last night I went to Mass at the church in Ponferrada. Each Mass is interesting much is like the Anglican service so I am getting to follow along. I am a little surprised at how inpersonal the service was. There is no contact between the Priest and the people, except in receiving the bread. However last night there was some singing which made the service more meaningful for me. Strange as it may sound I don´t sleep very well when we get a hotel or pension. Not sure what it that is all about but I do sleep well in the dorms in the Albergue. Who would have thought that was possible - but I do use ear plugs to muffle out the snoring. It was great to be going so early today. Walking in the early morning is a gift. We passed the usual number of churches and Ermitas. One of the churches in Cacabelos was actually open which is always a surprise. I am quite intrigued by the churches that seem to be built in the Templar style. They are generally less ornate than the others but are beautiful. We passed another artisan carving pilgrim shells out of a variety of different types of wood. He was working on the side of the trail in a shaded part. I couldn´t resist buying one made from wood that used to be in a church. Each village we passed through had very narrow streets with overhanging parts - some of which were a danger even for me to walk under. Sure they wouldn´t be legal in Canada. Same with food hygiene, everything is clean but wouldn´tpass food safe regulations back home! Have we gone a bit too far in such areas? Most villages have their own graveyard but many of the newer ones have gone to columariaums not just for ashes but for bodies too. Some have their own little house! We are back in wine making country - a different area called Bierzo. This afternoon we walked through acres and acres of grapvines at different stages of development. Interesting but a challenge in the intense heat. Stopped for lunch in a bar along the road and had a great bocadillo with cheese and real tomatoes. Sometimes when we ask for cheese and tomato we get cheese and some sort of tomato sauce (not ketchup) which is not what we first expected but is actually OK because it moistens the bread. Tonight we have got separated from the group, but in true Camino style all will be well. I am sure we will meet up tomorrow. Thanks for all your comments. Your messages of inspiration continue to help me along the way and I carry you all with me as we come to the last quarter of our pilgrimage. I continue to be amazed at how well we are doing but I only remember what I have done today - if that! I can´t always remember where I stayed last night but that is Camino brain -live in the moment. A and Z - Hope the renos continue to move along and the painting parties have helped get the job done. Rach -I laughed at Declan´s comment about the Basque SS Klondike! Give them all hugs from Nain - sure miss them. Love Daphne